Frequently Asked Questions

Angi's Kansas City guide reports an average job of about $3,058, with most falling between $2,181 and $3,959, and a local range of $1,390 to $5,550 for a two-car garage. HomeGuide's national figure is $4 to $10 per square foot installed. Old coatings, crack repair and flake or polyaspartic systems move the number, so we price after seeing the floor.

Yes, as long as the concrete is sound once the weak surface is ground off. Old slabs often need paint or sealer removed, cracks filled and low spots patched first. If the slab is heaving or water is coming through it, we tell you before quoting a coating.

Home Depot and Lowe's sell epoxy and polyaspartic kits, and many Kansas City stores carry them. A kit costs less up front. The difference with a professional install is diamond grinding, crack repair and thicker coats, which matter most on an older slab.

One-part epoxy floor paints and two-part kits at local stores run from under $50 a gallon to a few hundred dollars for a garage kit. HomeGuide puts premade kits at $200 to $700. Epoxy paint is a thin coat, and it wears through faster under hot tires than a ground, multi-coat system.

HomeGuide says solid epoxy is walkable after about 18 hours and fully cured in about seven days. Polyaspartic systems cure much faster, often ready for vehicles in a day or two. Kansas City humidity and cold slabs can slow both, so we give you times for your floor.

Sometimes. The slab and the air have to stay above each product's minimum temperature while it cures. HomeGuide notes that polyaspartic can be applied over a much wider temperature range than epoxy, so it is often the cold-weather choice. We check slab temperature and may heat the space or wait for a warmer stretch.

Angi's Kansas City guide lists $1,390 to $5,550 for a two-car garage of about 500 square feet. Where your floor lands in that range depends on how much grinding and repair it needs and which finish you pick. We give you a written number after we see it.

Most often because the coating never bonded well. Acid etching does not remove old sealer or weak concrete, and hot tires can lift a thin coat off that kind of surface. Grinding the slab and using a thicker system fixes the cause.

HomeGuide lists 2 to 7 days before driving on standard epoxy and 24 to 48 hours for polyaspartic. Cold or humid weather slows the cure. We tell you the time for your floor before we leave.

A smooth, glossy finish can be. Flake floors have natural texture, and we can add an anti-slip grit to the topcoat on solid colors. That matters in an icy Kansas City January.

They add some thickness, but strength comes from the bond. Chips mostly hide dirt and add texture. The grinding and repair under them matter more.

Less so than a smooth solid color, since the chip edges leave texture in the seal. Where the floor stays wet, we keep the seal thinner or add grit.

Most chip garages take one to two days of work, depending on repairs and the seal we use. Parking time depends on the product and the temperature, and we write it down for you.

Mid-tone grays and tans with some black hide dried brine, dust and tire marks well. Light blends look clean at first but show marks sooner.

It is made to hold its color. HomeGuide rates its UV resistance as excellent, compared with poor to fair for epoxy. That is why we often use it as the top layer even over an epoxy base.

Often, yes. HomeGuide lists a much wider temperature range for polyaspartic than for epoxy. We still check the slab with a thermometer and heat the garage if the product sheet calls for it.

HomeGuide puts heavy vehicle use at 24 to 48 hours. A cold slab slows that and humid air speeds it up. We give you a written time for your floor.

The material costs more, and the short working time takes a skilled crew working in small batches. HomeGuide lists $5 to $12 a square foot against $4 to $10 for epoxy.

Often, yes. A musty smell usually means damp air or some vapor through the slab. We test, and if the readings are moderate a moisture-tolerant primer can handle it. If water is leaking in, that gets fixed first.

HomeGuide lists installed epoxy at $4 to $10 a square foot and whole basements from about $1,200 to $20,000. Paint removal, tile glue, a moisture primer and crack work add to it. We quote after we test your slab.

No. Sealing a floor is not radon mitigation. Test with a kit from your county extension office, put in any mitigation system you need, and coat after that.

We grind it off. Old floor paint is often loose in spots, and new epoxy is only as strong as whatever it sits on. Grinding gets us to bare concrete.

HomeAdvisor lists commercial and industrial 100% solids epoxy at $12 or more per square foot, with higher-grade coatings adding 20% to 30%. Larger floors often cost less per foot, while heavy repairs, chemical-resistant topcoats and after-hours work cost more.

Usually in part. We can work in sections, on nights or weekends, and use fast-cure topcoats so each area returns to service sooner. We plan the order of work with you before we start.

A properly prepped, thick 100% solids system is built for wheeled traffic. Joint edges are the weak point, so we repair and fill them as part of the job.

Yes. Striping and color zones can be part of the coating system, so they wear with the floor instead of being painted on top.

Yes, once the cracks are filled and the slab is sound. Cracks that are still moving or offset need their cause fixed first, or they will come back through the coating.

Filled and ground cracks usually disappear under a flake floor. Under a solid color, a faint line can sometimes show. We tell you what to expect for your slab.

Usually. HomeGuide lists resurfacing at $3 to $7 per square foot. Tearing out and repouring costs much more and takes longer, and it is only needed when the slab itself has failed.

Yes. Filling cracks and patching damage before winter keeps water out of the concrete, and the floor can be coated when budget or schedule allows.